Newsletter #182: July, 2020
© Chris Harris. All rights reserved.
Hello everyone,
For a change of pace, I am inviting subscribers, especially those unfamiliar with the plateau landscape of south-central British Columbia, to join my wife Rita and I on a 1-day circle road trip that we made just over a week ago.
We’d like to share a small piece of the landscape that we feel so honoured to live in, and that I have been so privileged to photograph for the past 35 years.
Celebrating the 16th year of writing this photographic Newsletter.
Rita and I Went for a Day-Drive; Join us!
Two weeks ago, Rita and I drove to Lillooet for a celebratory meal at the Fort Berens Estate Winery. Fort Berens, a wonderful supporter of local tourism and featured winery at our last book launch, recently opened a restaurant; a fabulous excuse for a road trip! We decided to take the whole day and turn it into a circle tour, returning via Lytton, Ashcroft, Cache Creek, and Clinton. In total, approximately 400 km.
Lillooet has both a rich aboriginal history, and post-settlement history, which is connected to the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush. Some of my subscribers may wonder why our home town is called 100 Mile House. ‘100 miles from where?’; people ask. The answer is ‘Lillooet’, often referred to as ‘Mile 0’; the beginning of the Cariboo Wagon Road, the overland route to the gold rush town of Barkerville. Once the largest town west of Chicago and north of San Francisco, Lillooet sits quietly on the banks of the Fraser River on the lee side of the towering Coast Mountains.
We left early, travelling south on Hwy.97 in a rain storm.
With time on our hands, we drove slowly, enjoying the Cariboo landscape; chatting, sipping our coffee, and stopping frequently to make photographs.
As we travelled south, the hues of light changed constantly, reflecting their beauty in the many lakes we passed by.
Sculpted by two more recent ice ages, the remains of an ancient volcanic landscape can still be seen along Hwy. 97 north of Cache Creek.
After turning west along Hwy. 99, we passed beneath an old limestone quarry which had recently been idled indefinitely. While in operation, I never photographed here; however, in its quietened state, the patterns of excavation took on new meaning.
Continuing on past the Fountain Indian Reserve, the chimney remains of an old general store had Rita and I reminiscing of visits to the store several decades ago.
The Edge Hills and higher Marble Mountains form the backdrop to beautiful sage covered terraces high above the Fraser River Canyon.
Over 3 million years ago, lava and ice formed a great divide near here. Waters of the present-day Fraser River carried glacial flours and volcanic salts north through a broad valley to the Arctic. During these times, the fertile terraces like the one seen in this image, were formed as lake bottoms. When the glaciers of the Wisconsin Glaciation were gone, the Fraser reversed its flow and followed new contours south toward present day Vancouver.
Gentle forested slopes with grassy benchlands and deep ravines provide a diverse habitat for a wide range of wildlife species. We often see California bighorn sheep along this road.
We stopped frequently to enjoy the spectacular panoramic views of the Fraser River Canyon. The railway tracks below us once belonged to BC Rail. They reminded me of the year 1992 when I travelled 50,000 km chasing trains and light while photographing for my book publication BC Rail: British Columbia’s Great Train Adventure. The book sold 10,000 copies, and the imagery was used in ad campaigns for several years. It was one of my most memorable photographic assignments.
Just beyond the railway tunnel seen in this photograph, the rail line begins the steepest thirty-mile assent in North America. To travel as a rail passenger from Vancouver to central BC was a spectacular journey, and adventure!
Entering the town of Lillooet.
Our destination, Fort Berens Estate Winery.
The reward! Lillooet is considered the hottest place in Canada. It was only 30 degrees that day; no wonder that cooled glass of white wine was so delicious!! (iPhone image)
The view from our table overlooks the vineyards, township, and mountains beyond.
To make our day-trip a circular route, we travelled south-east from Lillooet to Lytton along Hwy.12. Once again, the winding road offered breathtaking views of the Fraser River below.
Whoops! As we rounded a corner, we were met by a family of California bighorn sheep. I made this image through my windshield.
The town of Lytton is where the silt-free Thompson River meets the glacial-fed Fraser River. From here we joined the Trans Canada Highway and traveled north towards Cache Creek.
Over the years I have discovered several locations to photograph CN and CP trains as they travel through the dramatic Thompson River Canyon.
A CN freight train rumbles slowly southward, always in danger of falling glacial till.
As luck would have it, after scrambling down a steep slope to a treeless viewpoint, another freight train appeared, just in time for me to make this photograph.
I wonder what the engineer thinks about as he travels under avalanche sheds through this dynamic landscape.
Dramatic backdrop.
Geological history on display.
After over 40 years of travelling this route, this section of track remains my favourite. I am drawn to the contrast between the simplicity of the horizontal and vertical lines juxtaposed against the complexity of the coloured rock wall.
Several years ago, I met a railway engineer who told me that this section of the highway and railway is in the most unstable section of land in the whole province of BC. I think of that every time I drive through here!
As our 1-day road-trip comes to a close, we approach 100 Mile House in a rain storm; just as we had left it 12-hours earlier.
Because the highway through the Fraser and Thompson river canyons travels north-south, the weather and lighting conditions change dramatically and frequently. Depending on the time of day and year, I could continuously photograph this route and see the viewscape in a different light, each trip.
The images above show only a fraction of the entire canyon route and portray the light of only a single day.
It’s a drive I always enjoy.
Check out my Portfolio’s
Check out 2-Day Photo Workshops
Check out 7-Day Residency Photo Workshops
Subscribe to this Newsletter
See you next month!
Nice post Chris, great images and I loved the story rich in details! That is an amazing part of BC indeed!
Indeed, an area of BC steeped in history; a part of who we are.
Some beautiful scenery captured and shared. Thank you
Thanks Allistair!
Great trip report, Chris! I always enjoy that drive too, and as always, you’ve captured the scenery so well – along with some history. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Jim. Always great to hear from you. As you well know, it’s a wonderful place to visit…or live! Take care.
Well done, Chris! I really enjoyed this trip with you and Rita if only in pictures. I found it not only interesting but I love the photography! Keep well mon ami
Glad you could join us John. Our journey together began some 65 years ago; I’m so happy we are still travelling together. Chris
65 years is correct but hard to believe we are that old! You are looking great and glad to see you so active! I will send you an email in the next week or so. Love to you and Rita!😀👍
Thank you for allowing us to participate in your one-day journey through this remarkable landscape. Beautiful photography, as always.
Happy to share our journey Sigridh!
Amazing pics! I have travelled that route a few times as my daughter and husband have a cabin at 70 mile. Green lake. Thanks
Happy to hear you enjoyed the circle-tour! So many people are connected to the Cariboo…and with good reason! A wonderful place visit or live. Thanks.
Hi Chris. Thanks for the visual memories of driving through the Fraser and Thompson
Canyons. Stunning landscape and courageous train drivers.
It’s a trip we have made many times…happy to share it with you Adbhuta.
Hi, Chris and Rita. Great idea for a day trip. Absolutely loved all the pictures. Rafting is also a great way to see the landscape from a different angle. We are so fortunate to have all this beautiful country.
Ineed, we are fortunate. Thank you for commenting!
Great road trip, Chris and Rita! My neighbor has the BC Rail: British Columbia’s Great Train book you spoke of. He was a railroad engineer in his early years and greatly enjoyed your book. I too enjoyed it and would like to find a copy for myself.
I’m afraid that book has long sold out but keep an eye in Second-hand book stores. They appear from time to time. I’ll do a Newsletter on that rail journey one of these days…stay tuned!
Thank you Chris! Wonderful images bringing back so many happy memories of the area. Thanks to my involvement with the Great Cariboo Ride I got to explore many areas around the Fraser and also visited Lillooet a number of times.
Happy to activate old memories! It’s such a wonderful place to travel through and explore. Thanks.
Thanks for taking us all on a tour!
Thanks for joining us!! Hoping all is well in Italy! Chris
I really enjoyed the photos from your trip in our beautiful country. We don’t have to travel far to appreciate the amazing landscape of British Columbia.
So true. Happy travels!
that was fun Chris………..good eyes!!
It was fun………beautiful country……hard to make a poor image even with your eyes closed!!
One of the most enjoyable of your newsletters in a while
Thanks Gord. Glad you enjoyed it.
Wonderful images of a wonderful province. My vote…Chris Harris for Tourism minister….
Thanks Chris, for showcasing our incredible province with breath taking photography…again
Only if you are my deputy minister!!!! Together we would create a BUZZ for sure!!!
Really love this Chris and Rita. Wonderful circle tour…one of my favourites. Ironically I’m just working on a piece about my first trip up Route 12 from Lytton to Lillooet nearly 50 years ago. Nice to know about athat nifty eating experience at Fort Berens.
Thanks for the tour. Looking forward to seeing it in person someday.
Be sure to drop in to our Gallery on the way through!!! Thanks.
Always great to hear from you Sage. Hopefully we meet soon.
Thanks as always for your beautiful images of our BC landscape….We travelled to the Chilcotin last summer en route to a week’s camp in the Niut range and your road trip brings back good memories. It was my first connection with the Chilcotin, where my great gr.father ranched (near Riske Creek) at the turn of the century.
Happy to hear you made it out to the Chilcotin; especially the Niut Range…spectacular! I love it there.
Many years ago, I took the train from North Vancouver to 100 Mile House … loved it!
That was an amazing journey. Maybe I’ll do a Newsletter on that trip too!!! Thanks for the inspiration!
What amazing photos! Just loved them! Thank you so much ! Cheers Helen
Thank YOU Helen!
Thank you so much for that wonderful trip in pictures and words. It has long been a favourite of mine, Years ago my husband & I would take that route as a change when we were heading to points south – the scenery hasn’t changed – I could relate to all your pictures – even the wildlife!! I haven’t travelled over the past 3 years because I’ve had to have 3 bouts of hip surgery (just recovering from the 3rd – same hip), plus losing my husband in 2017, & he was my travelling soul-mate. I hope after I recover this time (& the girl who removed my staples said she though I was one tough lady – not to mention I’m 80) I’ll be able to talk my son & his wife into taking me out over that route again. Fortunately they like driving the backroads like Jack & I used to! Again, thank you for the trip. I loved it.
That’s wonderful that these images brought back so many great memories for you. I hope you are able to do it again with your son. All the best.
Hi Chris, The landscape along the train routes is totally spectacular, and terrifying at same time. I certainly wouldn’t have nerve to be a passenger!
Amazing work for one day!!
Jane
Yes, a little different from a train ride (or car ride) through Ireland!! Congratulations to you too Jane on the Grand Opening of the O’Malley Wing of the new Butler Gallery in Kilkenny. You are an inspiration! Chris
… had the ‘privilege of attending your 2 day workshop (July 4-5) and now understand you’re ‘blessing of a magical vision and eye….I learnt so much and continue to ‘press on with my ‘illusions and choreography! ~-Thanks so much again to You and Rita….’Oggie
It was wonderful to meet you Oggie and share creative vision. Thanks again.
Your photos took on a whole new meaning this year, Chris, when closed borders prevented us from traveling to BC as we have done annually for several decades. They are a much appreciated reminder why we love this part of the country so very much. Thanks. Inge
How wonderful to hear from you Inge, and that you still receive my Newsletters! I am going to take another trip around the Bowron Lakes this fall; my 121st I believe!! I’ll say hi to them for you. I well remember the campsite where we met and shared conversations about Russia etc. It will be a grand way to celebrate 80 yeras on this wonderful planet!! Love to you both. Chris
So great to see the gorgeous landscape we left behind a decade ago. Miss it so much, Ontario is a lovely province, but nooooooo comparison to B.C. We do get back to visit though….but not enough! Great photos!
Hi Cris. I’ll never regret moving west 50 years ago yet I still enjoy my trips back east…great country!
Hello Folks, Chris, you absolutely have your own brand, still incomparable! Wondrous work of photo-Art…as always! Thank-you for inspiring the true qualities of a photographer!
I enjoyed very much everything you brought to my attention on your circle drive. Thank you for sharing the day, the light, the incredible land we live in.
Thanks Barb. I think I want to do it again!!
Thanks Lise. Always enjoying the journey!
Beautiful photos – thanks for sharing your day tour. I have traveled the same route, spectacular scenery.
Thanks for joining the trip Janet!
Hello Chris !
Great trip from my office chair.
As always inspired by the rugged beauty of our province.
Trudi Luethy,
Lions Bay, B.C.
Good for you Trudi. That’s making great use of your office chair!