Newsletter #209: April, 2024
© Chris Harris. All rights reserved
Hello everyone,
My wife Rita and I have just returned home from seven weeks in both Ireland and the Canary Island of Lanzarote. In Ireland we were dealing with the estate of my late sister, Jane O’Malley. Jane and her husband, Tony, went to Lanzarote annually to paint, and it was through their paintings that we were introduced to the stunning beauty of volcanic Lanzarote. For three weeks we explored the landscape and its culture.
This Newsletter is to share with you a smattering of our Lanzarote experience. A more in-depth perspective on Lanzarote arts and culture through photography can be seen by viewing my Visual Narratives. Topics to be covered will include camels, cactus gardens, beach life, hiking, César Manrique, and volcanoes. Throughout, of course, there will be comments on photography.
Arts, Culture & Tourism on Lanzarote Island
Born of basaltic shield volcanoes, Lanzarote has unquestionable natural beauty. The island is situated opposite the Sahara Desert on the west coast of Africa where south-easterly winds bring heat and dust, and trade winds from the northeast bring cool air and humidity. The result is an island climate that comprises mostly of sunshine and stable temperatures between 20- 25º year-round. Combined, this explains why Lanzarote is so attractive to tourists and naturalists alike; visiting in the millions every year.
Rita and I had an apartment in the central part of the island, and with our rented car, a 30-minute drive could easily take us to any corner of the island. It didn’t take us long to sense three very distinctive features about the island; a unique volcanic landscape, a distinct approach to tourism, and a local cultural setting that was both ingenious and visionary. The latter two features, which influence the daily lives of both locals and tourists, was the result of artist César Manrique.
Lanzarote is a tourism destination with a distinct visual identity.
César Manrique:
Briefly, César Manrique was born in Lanzarote in 1919. During his career he studied architecture and painting in Madrid, and later became an accomplished painter in New York City. His experience in America made him return home with a commitment to protect Lanzarote from what he regarded as pernicious tourist developments. Along with his passion for painting, architecture, and sculpture, he became a nature activist. By influencing planning regulations, all homes and offices buildings are low-rise (no high-rise tourist hotels) and painted white; the island has a visual identity. His influence on sustainable living, industry, and tourism is felt everywhere; Lanzarote remains a model tourism destination.
César’s first home shows how his architectural compositions blend with the natural environment.
César’s self designed home has since become the César Manrique Foundation which promotes art, environment, and culture. The two-story building, which is built on a lava flow containing several volcanic bubbles or caves, contains open spaces which harmonize with the climate.
Entrance to the home’s lower level
Lava caves became rooms and nook-spaces; each connected by passageways carved through the lava.
Each space is uniquely carved from a lava bubble; each decorated with plants, sculptures, and paintings.
Getting around the island:
Most roads are relatively narrow by North American standards, however, they all seemed as if they were freshly paved the day before. The result is that there are hundreds of cyclists riding throughout the island. With no road shoulders, cyclists travel the roads with equal rights to any vehicle. That’s right, all vehicles slow down and pass cyclists, as if they were another vehicle. It’s the law! The result, it seemed, slowed the entire pace of life on the island, which we found most enjoyable.
No shoulders, however, made it difficult to pull over, stop, and make imagery of the scenery.
Timanfaya Volcanic Park is a spectacular example of recent volcanic activity containing striking geological features like volcanic, cones, craters, tubes, bubbles, and geothermal activity. The park area is virtually intact, barely touched by human activity. The only way to absorb the parks natural wonders is on a slow-moving park-operated bus; sustainable tourism at it’s best.
The world’s most spectacular bus ride
Beaches:
There are many beautiful beaches around the island with the most famous ones near tourist centres. As Rita and I don’t visit popular tourist beaches, we discovered the beaches where the hippies and surfers hang out!
Remote beach which is known to have the biggest waves
This most beautiful colour is only found within a wave.
Wishing I was younger!
Camels:
The first camels on the island were brought over from Africa in the late 1400’s and have been an indispensable part of the island’s history. Together with their human partners, they have literally helped shape the island over five centuries.
Today, over 100 camels are used for tourism.
Back-dropped by volcanic beauty.
Rita on the lead camel!
Bodegas (wineries)
The cultivation of grapes in Lanzarote is unique due to a procedure that enables these scorched and barren lands to produce a grape vine which is protected under ash that is responsible for hording every drop of dew; so valuable in a land without springs.
Plants are grown differently in different parts of the island due to the thickness of the ‘lapilli’ or small lava particles which fall out of the air during an eruption.
In the Geria part of the island, each vine is planted in a hole up to 3m deep. The first blossoming took place while we were on Lanzarote.
Two of the bodegas we visited were like museums which illustrated their wine making processes over time. Wine tasting was definitely on our itinerary!
Hiking:
There are numerous hiking trails throughout the island which offer an opportunity to explore a mosaic of landscapes and cultural insights.
Rita explores inside of a volcanic crater.
Inside the Caldera de Los Cuervos which last exploded in 1730.
Rita hiking between two different types of lava, pahoehoe and Aa.
A beautiful green lichen grows over the lava in specific areas of the island.
Timanfaya Volcanic Park:
Admission to the park takes you to a visitors’ centre where one can absorb the atmosphere of this volcanic world. For a more extensive look at these spectacular volcanic landscapes, follow my Visual Narratives which are appearing on my website. Nothing excites me more that photographing in this most primal landscape.
The Atlantic Ocean is the backdrop to Timanfaya’s volcanic artistry.
Watching the play of light was more exciting than any Broadway production.
Craft and Produce Markets:
Visiting markets in small towns provides an authentic local experience. On weekends we would investigate local produce, explore local crafts, and eat local foods; a cultural extravaganza.
Local markets are busy, exciting, and educational experiences.
Street corner. While Rita explored the market, I often walked about the town seeking artistic expressions.
Shadow and light reveal colours and shapes.
I walked around this church three times; I was excited each time as I made new visual discoveries.
Following this sign was the end of my photography!
Visual Narratives on Lanzarote
As mentioned above, I will post a series of visual narratives providing a more in-depth perspective on Lanzarote arts and culture through photography. Topics to be covered will include camels, cactus gardens, beach life, hiking, town markets, César Manrique, and volcanoes. My thoughts on photography are contained throughout.
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