Newsletter #184: September, 2020
© Chris Harris. All rights reserved.
Paddling the Bowron Lakes
A 50th Anniversary Adventure!
Timeless
When the morning mist and the water became one, there was a sense of timelessness
In Search for Possibilities:
I love the idea that I have no idea. I love the idea that I have no idea of where a thought, an action, or a photograph will lead me, or how it will influence my life. The very thought of endless possibility in all that I see, do, or think of, is inspiring, motivating, and exciting.
Fifty years ago (1970) while finishing a degree in Fredericton, New Brunswick, I picked up a Sierra Club calendar, saw photographs of BC mountains, and decided on the spot, my life belonged there; somewhere. I had no idea where those photographs or that thought might take me.
After writing my last exam, I boarded the first train for Vancouver. Soon after, I read an article in the Vancouver Sun by Lee Straight about a canoe circuit in a ‘wild wilderness region’, 700 km north along a road that led to Yukon and Alaska. It seemed wildly exciting, and even though I had no experience in canoeing, wilderness travel, or with wildlife encounters, I had to go.
I had no idea that experience would lead to a livelihood where, as a wilderness guide, I would guide over 1000 people around that circuit. I had no idea that as a wilderness traveller I would paddle the circuit over 120 times, a total distance of flying from Victoria, BC to St. John’s, Nfld. three times. I had no idea that a photograph I would make would be the cover image of a best-selling book (over 20,000 copies) I was to independently publish in 1991.
Those calendar photographs, that newspaper article, and all the images I have made while paddling the Bowron Lakes, were filled with possibility. It’s that possibility that excites me.
The Beginnings:
Compared to the simple lines and shapes of a canoe or a mountain, the interior temperate rainforest with its structural entanglement and washes of colour seemed far more complex. Finding it impossible to capture this feeling within a representational style of image-making, I found a more accurate expression in abstraction.
My earliest canoe trips, including those that I guided, were physical adventures; teaching clients how to paddle, and set distances to cover each day in every kind of weather. The reward was the completion of a 120km circuit; a noble accomplishment for everyone.
When I decided to publish a book on the Lakes, my hobby of photography became a more serious endeavor; my trips became visual adventures. Now-a-days, my journeys around the Lakes have become spiritual adventures. I travel slower, connecting to the land and its consciousness. My photography also connects me to my inner-world; my images becoming an expression of self.
The Journey:
Entering the morning mist
Earlier this month, Rita and I returned to the Bowron Lakes, with our long-time friend, John McCarvill, and his son-in-law, Todd Wade, both of whom were new to the circuit. John’s canoe is a classic; a Greenwood cedar-canvas canoe, a perfect match for my Chestnut! I didn’t do a lot of photography on this trip, but with Rita and friends, I enjoyed it immensely.
I might add that Rita and John are culinary artists. Our packs were a little heavy, but the rewards were many!
Below are a few images I made along the way.
Entrance to Kibbee Lake. This is a most meaningful moment for me. With the first dip of the paddle, we leave the electronic world behind. Our adventure with nature begins.
As the marsh opens up, we embrace a new rhythm.
I prefer to paddle close to shore; it’s thought provoking and visually stimulating.
We usually set up camp in the early afternoon, leaving time to explore and enjoy hobbies. Rita and I often set off together to explore the natural world; sometimes I go alone with my camera, seeking expressions of possibility.
John enjoying the art of fly-fishing
Todd had never paddled before, but with a little instruction, he was amazed to discover how responsive a canoe is to the angle of each and every stroke.
At every campsite our Greenwood and Chestnut cedar-canvas canoes always seemed at the ready, waiting for us to explore new surroundings.
I could hear stories and laughter around the campfire as I began my evening of photography. It was the only clear evening on our trip; no forest fire smoke or cloud cover.
“There are billions of times more stars in our universe than there are grains of sand on our Earth”. – Jay Barbree & Martin Caidin
After 50 years, I still felt mesmerized by the lines, shapes, and tonalities of a familiar landscape. To capture them, I used the realist style which I had developed here and honed over time.
As I paddle, I have two cameras at the ready in front of me, always ready to capture the dance of light.
Many of the shoreline birch trees find themselves slowly falling outward over the lakes. I have got to know them personally over the years; I paddle beneath them, touching their branches whenever I can. They are old friends.
Over time, they lower, allowing me to touch each one before they die. Our relationship deepens and I pay my respects.
I made this image to show four canoeists as they paddled through an expanse created by mist and tonal contrast.
An impressionist view of our campsite.
The history of the Bowron Lake area began over 600 million years ago, when North America’s western shore lay roughly along the present Alberta border. Sediments flowing outward into the shallow western sea gradually built up and became layered sedimentary rock. The layers in this image are almost vertical due to more recent mountain building forces.
The Cariboo River. Most of the present-day circuit drains south to Vancouver and the Pacific Ocean via the Cariboo and Fraser River watersheds. During a past ice age, when drainages to the south were blocked with ice, the Bowron Lakes area drained north from Indianpoint Lake toward the Arctic Ocean.
Along the shores of Babcock Lake, we were treated to a courting display.
The Upper Bowron River:
The Upper Bowron River and marsh.
Nowhere on this planet has provided me with more spiritual nourishment than this hour-long paddle winding through the Bowron River marsh. On every solo or guided trip, I have entered the river at dawn. I request silence from everyone travelling with me, to absorb what the river has to offer us. The ‘Indian stroke’ in the stern is all that is required for complete quietness and steering.
The Bowron River and marshlands.
As the morning mist rises and the sun slowly breaks through, we become one with the river, the vegetation, and the birds and animals that live there. As we pass through the homelands and communities of the river otter, muskrat, beaver, moose, wolf, and countless species of birds, we become aware of a world far greater than we can imagine.
Over the 50 years of paddling through this marsh, I had never seen a sandhill crane. With climate change, they are moving further and further north to nest.
Just as we entered Bowron Lake, another crane flew past our canoes, as if to say ‘farewell’. It was a wonderful way to end our trip.
The river water that quietly guided our canoes that morning will always return to its source, always willing to take us on another canoe journey through the Bowron River marsh. I can’t wait to visit once again!
7–Day Workshops – 2021
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Gabriola: May 3-10, 2021
September. 10-17, 2021
The Ever-changing Coastline – Representational
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One-week intensive photographic workshops
with
Chris Harris & Dennis Ducklow
Bella Coola: June 21-28, 2021
Such a deeply moving experience to read your account and see your images from this, your latest in120+ trips. I love your words: “my journeys around the Lakes have become spiritual adventures” and “Over time, they lower, allowing me to touch each one before they die. Our relationship deepens and I pay my respects.”
Thank you for taking us along on a profound journey.
I know your words come from deep within Dennis; they are genuinely appreciated.
A wonderful collection of memories. Cheers.
Appreciated; thanks Phil.
love the night shot especially Chris…………..
Always good to know you are travelling with me Darrel. Thanks.
Excellent! Thanks for sharing…
Thank you.
Chris, I am reveling in the visual and written experience of your 50th anniversary trip. I love your description of your relationship with individual trees, greeting old friends, honoring the close of their life cycles… Profound it is. To know you, and to appreciate how you see the world, has enriched my life. For that, I must thank you. Brilliant newsletter!
Thank you for paddling with me Brenda. I have many tree friends around the circuit, each with a different story. It was enriching to reconnect.
Chris, I am enjoying reading your stories.
Thanks Barb. I remember our trip of many years ago!
Thanks for the cyber journey, Chris
Thanks once again Chris…gifting us with your sense of mystery
It has been enriching to work with you over the years Sage. Inspirational in many different ways. Thanks.
Hi Chris, years ago I took a photography course from you at UNBC in Prince George; it was before digital and I had been so busy with college and then work that I had not made time for photography for years, so I took your photo course to try to regain inspiration. Within in 10 minutes of listening to you, I felt a renewed energy for photography 🙂 . I’ve followed your newsletter for years and have been a fan of your work for a long time. My husband and I di the Bowron Lakes in 1998 with individual kayaks, it was a trip that we really enjoyed. We have a signed copy of your Bowron lakes book to remember that trip plus a lot of images that I took. I enjoyed your blog on your memories of Bowron lakes and amazed at how many times that you did that trip.
Thank you for your kind words, experiences, and memories. Photography can enrich ones life in so many ways; I feel honoured to have been a part of your visual journey.
Chris, what a wonderful way to start my day, being guided through this incredible beautiful landscape by your
amazing pictures. I am thankful for every newsletter created by you, making me even more aware about the natural wonders surrounding us. Keep up the good work
Rainer, I am always inspired by your deep connection with your land, the food you raise there, and your spirit in sharing that connection. You are special….
You have enriched my life with your ongoing invitation to be at one with nature through the sound of silence…
I feel your spirit in your words. Thanks Sigridh.
Thanks for sharing this adventure Chris. I’ve only done the circuit once (with Pathways a few years ago) and your images and words brought back that spiritual feeling one gets on that circuit – especially in that marsh.
Thanks Fred. Happy to hear you have enjoyed the marsh at sunrise.
I did this canoe trip with a group of Boy Scouts in the BC Centennial year 1967. I was the Scout Master and several dads joined us to assist. As a group we had constructed a number of canoes ourselves using a wax ‘casting’ from a canoe, fiberglass ‘woven rovin’ and a finish coat. We even made the yokes for portaging and the seats. Long oak strips constituted the gunwales and small triangles were made from fiberglass to finish our bows and sterns. A few made their own paddles. Alas, photographs from that week-long trip are lost.
The trails back then were primitive as the adventure was not well known. We also were treated to views of Eagles, moose and many species of ducks. I managed to catch a 10 lb (est.) lake trout which was cooked in tin-foil under hot embers for about an hour!
Chris, thank you for helping me remember this epic trip!
Those were the days Karl! I remember well what the portage trails were like! Happy to hear the Newsletter brought back those happy memories. Chris
Thank you Chris for the opportunity to feel the quiet stillness of moving through the still waters of the marsh and the surreal sense of moving into and through the fog into the unknown, a strong parallel to what we are heading into globally with a trust that the fog will lift and the sun will always be there in its brilliance of diamond light rays.
The mist will rise and I know you too will be there to see the diamond light rays. Thanks Adbhuta
Your photos brought back memories – quite a few years ago I did the Bowron Lake circuit. The most spectacular place I have ever paddled – magical.
Magical it is! Glad you enjoyed the memories.
Thank for this calming experience.
Thank you Valerie